- A highly acclaimed French chef has sparked controversy after demanding his restaurant be removed from the Michelin guide.
- Marc Veyrat’s Haute Savoie restaurant was this year demoted from three to two Michelin stars, and he’s not best pleased about it.
- In a strongly-worded letter, the chef decries the inspectors’ “profound incompetence.”
- His biggest gripe is with the fact the guide reportedly accused him of putting cheddar cheese in his soufflé as opposed to the regional specialties of reblochon, beaufort, and tomme.
- The Michelin guide has refused to remove Veyrat’s restaurant.
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A renowned French chef is stirring things up in the French haute cuisine scene after demanding his restaurant is removed from the Michelin Guide.
Marc Veyrat, the highly celebrated gastronome behind the restaurant La Maison des bois à Manigod in the Haute Savoie region, lost his third Michelin star in January.
And after a few months of reflection, he’s now penned an angry attack on the culinary Bible, decrying its “amateurism” and the inspectors’ “profound incompetence.”
“I have been depressed for six months,” said Veyrat, 69, in a letter published by Le Point. “How dare you take the health of your chefs hostage?”
The acclaimed cuisinier went on to explain that it was when he went to Michelin’s Paris offices to try and understand why his restaurant had been demoted that he learned of the company’s “profound incompetence.”
“It makes me fear for future generations,” said Veyrat, who is known for his trademark black hat.
But the most offensive thing the Michelin inspectors did, in the eyes of Veyrat, was suggesting he had used cheddar in his soufflé rather than reblochon, beaufort, and tomme.
“They’ve insulted our region, my employees were furious!” Veyrat said. “When we have hens from our eggs, milk from our cows, and two botanists who pick our plants every morning!”
He also called the inspectors “manipulators of gastronomy,” claiming they only want to create clashes for “commercial reasons.
Despite Veyrat’s fury, the guide’s write-up of La Maison des Bois – where dinner without drinks costs €295 ($330) to €395 ($440) per person – remains highly complimentary, lauding the chef’s ability always to astound.
There is, however, no mention of cheese or soufflé.
Following his request for removal, Veyrat said he felt “more free than ever,” however the guide has refused his demand, according to Le Monde.
“The stars are awarded by Michelin on a yearly basis and they are not the property of the chefs,” commented the guide’s international director, Gwendal Poullennec.
“They are for readers and foodies to give them the opportunity to discover an experience.”